Raising Rabbits 

Want to learn best practices about raising rabbits?  Find resources here for your benefit.  The resources provide opinions only and SARBA is not responsible for the content nor efficacy of them. If you have information you would like to share, contact the webmaster to submit your ideas.

 


 

Baby Bunny Formula
1 cup evaporated goat's milk (available in the baking aisle)
3 egg yolks
1 Tablespoon Corn Syrup
1 Drop of rabbit vitamins
Pinch Salt
Blend until smooth, heat to 95 degrees, feed drop by drop to kit in upright position.  Use a Q-tip or eye dropper to feed.  Use caution not to aspirate liquid into lungs.
 

 

Daisy says, "I ate it & it was good!  Now I get to be a show bunny." 

 


 
  Homemade Critical Care
The saving grace for ailing rabbits who won’t eat
1/4 of a banana
1/8 cup regular rabbit food pellets
1/4 cup unflavored Pedialyte
1/8 cup canned pumpkin
options:  rabbit vitamins, hay (can clog syringe) , calf manna
Blend in blender until smooth and thin enough to syringe feed.  Additional water or Pedialyte added will thin.  Place syringe behind front teeth and squeeze a pea-sized portion into rabbit’s mouth.  Allow to chew and swallow between bites.  Feed 1 cc 2 to 3 times per day until rabbit begins to eat normally.  Keep ingredients on hand at all times.
Thanks Bunnybees.com!

 

 

 
Gene Codes
Pattern:  A = Agouti; at = Tan Pattern; a = Self (solid)
Color:  B = Black; b = Chocolate;
C = Full Color (including yellows)
c(chd) = Chinchilla (no yellow)
c(chl) = Shading/lightening
c(h) = Himalayan (pts, white body)
c = REW
D = Dense color (intense colors)
d = Dilute color (lightens)
Es = Steel (dark with tipping)
E = Normal dark pigment
ej = Brindling (harlequin, tri-color)
e = Recessive darkness (red/yel)
En = Broken
EnEn = Charlie
Enen = Proper Broken
en = Solid
Du = Normal
du = dutch
Dudu = piebald (as DH mis-mark)
V = Standard
v = BEW
Si = Normal color
si = Silvered

*Remember: 

Dominant genes are capital letters.  
Lower case are recessives. 
  

Want to learn more about genetics?  See examples and their codes here:

http://www.debmark.com/rabbits/genetics.htm




 

Breeding

This article is an excellent primer on the "how to" of breeding rabbits.  http://www.debmark.com/rabbits/breeding.htm


What to Expect when you are Expecting...Bunnies! 

All rabbit breeders have their methods for achieving healthy viable litters.  Surprisingly, rabbit does are not terribly good at mothering sometimes.  Unlike cats, they will not move kits who have strayed from the nest back into the safety of the nestbox.  Often, they birth their young outside the nest and will leave the young to die of hypothermia "on the wire."  It is up to the human to save these babies or you will lose them all.

Does most often give birth in the wee hours of the morning (4 am - 6 am) just before daylight on the 31st day of gestation.  Does can give birth anywhere between the 29th and 35th day, however it is rare to stray too far from the 30th to 32nd day.  Be sure to mark breeding dates carefully on the calendar and be ready.  Introduce a nest box and coastal hay for nesting material on day 25.  It is a good idea to remove all toys from the cage at this time as they will be incorporated into the nest in the does frenzy.  The doe will sometimes pull some hair right away, but more often she will build a fine nest and pull hair just as she gives birth.  A hormone produced causes the hair to easily be pulled from the teat area.  This is a truly clever manuver nature designed:  the doe reveals her milk to the kits at the same time she provides a warm, soft bed for them to sleep in! 

It is a good idea to check does often during this period.  It only takes a few minutes to lose kits which are born on the wire.  If you catch them in time, you can warm them next to your skin to pink them up.  Then simply nest them into the nestbox and cover them with mother's hair for a blanket.  If mom has not pulled hair, shredded cotton balls can substitute.  Experienced rabbit raisers save hair from false pregnancies and grooming to use instead.  Don't worry about the foreign smell, it doesn't seem to bother them at all.

After the doe has completed birthing, give her some calf manna and remove the whole nestbox for inspection.  Check each kit and count them.  If they have smudges of blood or anything else on them, gently clean them with a baby wipe.  Leaving this for mother can be a bad idea.  Sometimes does will over clean their young and puncture their tender skin or accidently cannibalize ears, tails, or feet. 

Within a 24 hour period following birth the doe should have fed her young.  Most do it soon after birth.  You can tell a kit has been fed because its belly will pertrude on the sides.  If she has not fed them, the kits should be put with another nursing doe or they can be fed by hand using the mother if she has milk.  To do this, hold the mother on her back covering her face to calm her.  Place each kit on her stomach area and help them find a teat.  It doesn't take long to see full bellies appear.  This only needs to be done two times per day even if the mother does not start to feed them.  Rabbit milk is the most caloric mamalian milk on Earth.  After two weeks they can take care of taking what's theirs on their own.

At about 10 days the bunnies will begin to open their eyes.  At 14 days, they will venture out of the nestbox and begin eating pellets and hay.  Old fashioned oatmeal is a great baby food to introduce at this time.  By 4 weeks they will start to be less interested in their mother's milk and the feeling is mutual for the doe.  If the kits are eating well, weaning can begin.  For some, another week is needed.  By 6 weeks, the kits should be weaned and ready for new homes. 

Rabbit Birthing is fascinating.  Check out this resource to learn all about what to expect:


Tips for Kits

Keeping kits healthy and growing requires a little attention to detail.  Not only are they your potential show animals and sales, but they are sweet little things that need your help to thrive.  Check kits when they are born:  count them, check for deformities, cull stillborns, examine their color markings (this is the exciting and challenging part--what did I get?).  If a kit is a runt, it might need some extra nursing time to catch up with its siblings or even get his fair share of the milk.  Clean babies with an unscented baby wipe or other soft, damp cloth.  Sometimes mom will accidentally hurt her young trying to clean them.  Check bottom sides daily.  Kits can get an infection within 24 hours if fecal material is allowed to stay stuck to their behinds.  If they do get infected, antibiotic ointment can help it heal quickly. 

As the kits develop, track their progress.  Most can be sexed at about two weeks, but this takes practice.  When they start to venture out of the nest to eat, provide them with hay and oats to get things started.  Make sure to provide a small crock of water for kits.  Sometimes they don't quite figure out the water nib or bottle until they are older.  This is less important while they are still nursing mom--they get their fluid from her.  It is vital at weaning.  Don't assume that if one knows how to drink from a nib that all of them do.  It is easy to provide water, and it very hard to lose a kit that has made it to four weeks old.  Make sure that all the kits are eating and gaining weight. 

When the kits are eating and drinking independently they are ready to rehome.  Usually, depending on the breed and individual rabbit, this is between four and six weeks.  Six weeks is preferred.

 

 

 


 

 

Sexing Rabbits

This is a crucial skill that rabbit breeders must learn to do efficiently.  Don't beat yourself up if you find it difficult at first or even if you get it wrong once in a while--even experienced breeders can be fooled by tricky kits.  Here is a link to an excellent article with pictures to help you learn anatomy of rabbits and how to differentiate the sexes at early ages even in dwarf breeds. http://www.debmark.com/rabbits/sexing.htm

 


 

 

Palpating a Doe 

Palpation is tough to learn for new rabbit raisers.  Here is an excellent article on how to palpate a doe to see if she is pregnant:

palpation.pdf  [41.36K]


 

Rabbit Stasis 

Stasis is a needless killer.  It is easy to solve if the rabbit raiser knows how to spot it and how to react to it.  In short, stasis is when a rabbit stops eating, seemingly for no reason.  Once the gut shuts down the rabbit will just die.  Watch your herd and monitor input and output daily.  If a rabbit doesn't eat one day take note; two days be concerned; if it continues on day three, act fast.  Mix up the recipe for critical care and start syringe feeding to remobilize the gut.  Also, give Pedialyte via syringe.  Soon the rabbit will start to eat & drink again on its own.

Learn more about stasis by reading this article:



 

 Rabbit Medicine

It is important to be prepared.  Rabbits, especially baby rabbits, can go down hill fast when they are ill.  Learn what to do and have supplies readily at hand to solve problems as they come up.  Here is a list of items to consider having on hand:


 Drug Dosage Calculator for Rabbits

 

What are Cecotropes?

Many new rabbit raisers see cecotropes in the litter pan and think their new rabbit is sick.  Cecotropes are a strongly odored, grape-like cluster of poop which looks very different from the normal ball shaped droppings rabbits normally produce.  Cecotropes are not only a healthy discharge, but necessary to good rabbit digestion.  Learn more about them here. 

Cecotropes.pdf  [34.2K]


 

Rabbit Healthcare, Disease, Solutions

These are excellent resources on rabbit healthcare.  One defines conditions found in domesticated rabbits and offers solutions to common disease and maladies.  Others specifically addresses E. Cuniculi, a parasite that can attack the brain and nervous system of rabbits giving them wry neck and can cause death if not treated rapidly.  





 

 Not So Silly Rabbit Tricks

  • Use a plastic fly swatter to knock rabbit "berries" from the cage bottom during molt.  Careful not to catch a toenail.
  • Save clean grooming hair or false pregnancy pulled hair for does who fail to pull hair or need more in winter.  A paper bag allows air to rid the hair of scent.
  • Use a pump up sprayer to fill crocks with water both in the rabbitry and at shows.
  • If you have a tray system for droppings, read those trays every day.  By analyzing outputs from rabbits breeders can recognize illness sooner.  Look for signs such as reduced outputs or soft output.
  • Pick up porcelain kitchen containers called ramekins from garage sales and thrift stores to use for food and water crocks.  They are inexpensive and much more durable than ceramic.  Pretty too!
  • Avoid "J-feeders" for new rabbit raisers, especially children.  By opening the door and feeling the rabbit every day you not only encourage calm, comfortable rabbits that will be good on the judging table, but you can also custom feed that rabbit based on its condition.  Give a thin rabbit a little more, a heavy one a little less.
  • Practice show poses starting with young rabbits.  When the judge "sets them up" they will know what to do.